{"doi":"10.9753/icce.v12.19","title":"HORIZONTAL WATER PARTICLE VELOCITY OF FINITE AMPLITUDE WAVES","abstract":"<jats:p>This paper firstly describes two methods to measure vertical distribution and time variation of horizontal water particle velocity induced \"by surface waves in a wave tank These two methods consist of tracing hydrogen bubbles and using hot film anemometers, respectively Secondly, the experimental results by the two methods are presented with the theoretical curves derived from the small amplitude wave theory, Stokes wave theory of 3rd order, and the hyperbolic wave theory as an approximate expression of the cnoidal wave theory Finally, based on the comparison of the experimental data with the theoretical curves, the applicability of the finite amplitude wave theories, which has been studied for the wave profile, wave velocity, wave length and wave crest height, is discussed from view point of the water particle velocity.</jats:p>","journal":"Coastal Engineering Proceedings","year":1970,"id":37400,"datarank":2.640979890578329,"base_score":3.1354942159291497,"endowment":3.1354942159291497,"self_citation_contribution":0.47032413238937254,"citation_network_contribution":2.1706557581889565,"self_endowment_contribution":0.47032413238937254,"citer_contribution":2.1706557581889565,"corpus_percentile":null,"corpus_rank":null,"citation_count":22,"citer_count":22,"citers_with_citation_signal":20,"citers_with_endowment":20,"datacite_reuse_total":0,"is_dataset":false,"is_dataset_confidence":null,"is_data_producer":false,"deposit_databanks":null,"is_oa":false,"file_count":0,"downloads":0,"has_version_chain":false,"published_date":null,"fair_score":null,"fair_percentile":null,"algorithm_id":"datarank_citation_only_1hop_v6","ranking_scope":"data_only","authors":[{"id":187532,"name":"Tetsuo Sakai","orcid":null,"position":1,"is_corresponding":false},{"id":187531,"name":"Yuichi Iwagaki","orcid":null,"position":0,"is_corresponding":false}],"reference_count":0,"raw_metadata":{"has_enrichment":true,"base_score":3.1354942159291497,"endowment":3.1354942159291497,"datacite_reuse_total":0,"file_count":0,"downloads":0,"views":0,"has_version_chain":false,"is_dataset":false,"is_oa":false,"pmid":"24523987","pmcid":null,"openalex_id":"https://openalex.org/W2319472457","authors":[],"funders":[],"total_grants":0,"fwci":2.7273,"citation_percentile":0.84745763,"influential_citations":0,"citation_trend":[{"year":2012,"count":1},{"year":2014,"count":2},{"year":2017,"count":1},{"year":2020,"count":1},{"year":2022,"count":1}],"oa_status":"gold","license":"cc-by","oa_locations":[{"url":"https://icce-ojs-tamu.tdl.org/icce/index.php/icce/article/download/2623/2288","host_type":"conference"},{"url":"https://icce-ojs-tamu.tdl.org/icce/index.php/icce/article/download/2623/2288","host_type":"BRONZE"},{"url":"https://icce-ojs-tamu.tdl.org/icce/index.php/icce/article/download/2623/2288","host_type":"publisher"},{"url":"https://icce-ojs-tamu.tdl.org/icce/article/download/2623/2288","host_type":"publisher"},{"url":"https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v12.19","host_type":"conference"}],"fields_of_study":["Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing","Coastal and Marine Dynamics","Oceanographic and Atmospheric Processes","Physics","Environmental Science"],"mesh_terms":[],"keywords":["Wave shoaling","Stokes wave","Crest","Amplitude","Airy wave theory","Physics","Particle velocity","Mechanics","Surface wave","Cnoidal wave","Wave height","Waves and shallow water","Wind wave","Breaking wave","Anemometer","Wave propagation","Classical mechanics","Optics","Mechanical wave","Longitudinal wave","Turbulence"],"sdg_mappings":[{"sdg_number":0,"sdg_label":"Clean water and sanitation"}],"linked_datasets":[],"clinical_trials":[],"software_tools":[],"database_accessions":[],"source":"live","citation_network_status":"fetched"},"created_at":"2026-06-10T19:23:07.576347Z","pmid":null,"pmcid":null,"fwci":null,"citation_percentile":null,"influential_citations":0,"oa_status":null,"license":null,"views":0,"total_file_size_bytes":0,"version_count":0,"fair_f":null,"fair_a":null,"fair_i":null,"fair_r":null,"fair_zscore":null,"fair_rationale":null,"fair_model":null,"fair_agent_version":null,"fair_fulltext_source":null,"fair_has_llm":null,"fair_computed_at":null,"clinical_trials":[],"software_tools":[],"db_accessions":[],"linked_datasets":[],"topics":[]}